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United
Kingdom
United Kingdom
City: London
Country: United Kingdom
Submitter's Name: Sarah
Nationality: American
Arrival Date: April 2003
Date Submitted: September 04, 2007
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Expand/ContractCity Description
London is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world, with lots of ethnicities -- and expats -- living side by side. It a huge, sprawling city, and feels more manageable than New York, but doesn't lack on the culture and life front. (It's not nearly as convenient as the US though, but no other country is!)

The weather is temperate because of the Gulf Stream, and it rarely gets exceedingly hot or terribly cold. That said, it is grey a lot, although it doesn't rain as much as people think.
Expand/ContractPros and Cons
London has great public transport, although traffic can be a nightmare (there are no big thoroughfares through the city). It's also fashion conscious city, but one where anything goes, provided you give your look some thought and have the confidence to pull it off. No uniform here.

In the past few years racial tensions have increased, with the onset of more terror threats. But for now, most people ignore the threats (and perhaps the issues) and hope they don't get worse.

It can take awhile to make friends with Brits, since they're used to expats leaving after a few years. They can also be very cliquey, staying in groups with people they've known their whole lives. But they're the way to fully integrate into society, so it's worth the effort.
Expand/ContractImmigration / Visas / Work Permits
There are a variety of work permits accepted in the UK. Most expats are sponsored by their companies, but you can also apply for an HSMP, which awards permits based on previous experience and education. This is the official site: http://www.workingintheuk.gov.uk

After five years of living in the UK, you can apply for indefinite leave to remain, which you can keep for the rest of your life, provided you come here at least once every two years. At that time you can also apply for citizenship.
 
Expand/ContractAccomodation
Most American start in West London -- Kensington, Chelsea, High Street Ken, South Ken, Notting Hill, Richmond. It's the most familiar of the areas. Those ready to jump right in might live in Islington, Battersea, Clapham (if in your 20s), Hampstead or Wapping.

For many properties, rent is measured in weeks, so a house that is £1K/week is not £4K/month, it's £4333 (multiply by 52 and divide by 12).

Many locals live an hour or more away from work, and don't pay nearly as much as expats, who tend to live more centrally. In the aforementioned West London areas, a one-bedroom could be £300-£400/week, a two-bed £500-£700/week, and a family home could be well over £1K/week. In the other neighbourhoods above, rents would be a bit less.

But for the most part, places close in are expensive, which is why so many Londoners take a train in every day.
Expand/ContractHousehold Help
In London, we have taxi drivers. And bus drivers. An excellent cleaner is £10/hour, as is someone who comes in to iron. It's less expensive to have someone to come in and iron than it is to send shirts out, not to mention more convenient (and better for the environment without those plastic covers).
Expand/ContractCommunication
You can make international calls for next to nothing, using a variety of add-on phone options like OneTel. If you're paying more than 3p a minute, that's way too much (and some would say 1p a minute is more like it).

There are a number of international shows available through cable, which is good through Virgin Media or Sky. Most American programs that come here are about a year late. The nice thing about UK mail is that it (almost always) arrives overnight when you send first class. But don't use Air Sure through Royal Mail to the US -- if you need to overnight something, use DHL or FedEx (not on every corner here).
 
Expand/ContractLocal Language
For those who speak English, England is a breeze!
Expand/ContractUtilities for the Home
Tap water is very good here, and in restaurants it's acceptable to order it (although you'll always be offered bottled).

Almost all flats come standard with washing machines, which is great. Many of them are 2-in-1 and also dry clothing (although not very well). Tumble dryers can be found, and if you have one, you'll be the envy of most of the city.
Expand/ContractLocal Employment
London is like any big city -- lots of immigrants do the more manual jobs, and there are many industries represented for white-collar employment. Brits do like hiring Americans, since they occasionally work harder than their British counterparts.

There are a few specific places to look, for example, The Guardian's media section is great for media jobs: http://media.guardian.co.uk/
Expand/ContractMoney and Banks
Setting up a bank account upon arrival is a nightmare (the UK has strict laws to prevent money laundering. Some banks want letters of introduction from your home bank, others require you live here for six months before they'll give you one.

The basic rule of thumb is that you need to have a utility bill to set up an account, although HSBC does offer a Passport account, which doesn't require it. On occasion a letter from your employer will facilitate.

If you decide to bank with HSBC, you can also set up your account before you arrive, which saves a lot of hassle.
Expand/ContractHealthcare
The NHS provides free healthcare for anyone who comes to the UK with the intention to live here (and emergency care for any visitors). Their A&E (ER) is great, although not all A&E facilities take kids. For the most part, the NHS offers good service.

Many "proper" expats have truly cushy private insurance, which covers everything through private doctors, which are significantly nicer. You want this (if negotiating a package).

But most normal employees have private insurance that supplements NHS -- you visit your NHS GP and get a referral, then see a private doctor. This kind of insurance doesn't cover pregnancy.
Expand/ContractEducation
I don't have kids yet, so I can only report on what I've collected in the past four years.... Education is a big differentiator here. The class system is alive and well in the UK, and education "entitlement" helps keep it that way. So does the accent you learn in school, be it a posh accent or a working class accent, which often affects one's future. Parents put their kids in feeder schools in pre-school, hoping they'll end up at Oxford and Cambridge.

One friend of mine, who consults private and public schools all over England and knows the system very well, said that she will absolutely send her child to state school for elementary school, but absolutely not for secondary. There isn't enough respect between kids and teachers.
Expand/ContractTransportation
London is a driving city to the locals, and not a driving city to anyone else (until they've lived here a few years). Part of the reason is that driving into Central London during weekdays incurs a Congestion Charge of £8 (rumoured to go up to £25). Also because the city is so big, that getting from one side to the other can take two hours -- and not even during rush hour. http://www.ccLondon.com

Europeans don't need to get a new license, they can drive on theirs for as long as they're here. Americans can drive on theirs for the first 12 months, then need to go through the process of getting a UK license. http://www.dvla.gov.uk/ is great, with lots of buses and plenty of tube lines to get you anywhere. For slightly longer journeys, above-ground trains are good. It's not inexpensive, and is based on distance traveled. A serious con is that the tubes aren't air-conditioned either, which can be rough in the summer. http://www.thetube.com
Expand/ContractShopping & Beauty Care
The Boots is the drug store that every city-dweller knows well. They're all over the place, and larger stores also sell department store makeup and perfume. But they don't sell household cleaning supplies -- there's still a bit of a quaint specialist store thing happening here.

Waitrose is the best grocery store chain, although the incredible (single location) of Whole Foods on High Street Kensington deserves a big mention. But Waitrose is far more convenient, with many locations around the UK. Tesco and Sainsbury's are also good, but a few steps down. Sommerfield, Costcutters and Budgens are for emergency only.

American food fixes can be met at Partridge's, Selfridge's Food Halls and through http://www.americanfoodworldwide.com

B&Q and HomeBase sell everything you need for home DIY, and Robert Dyas (The Ironmonger) is a good hardware chain.
Expand/ContractSports and Entertainment
The best gym chain here is Holmes Place, now owned by Virgin and called Virgin Active. Their gyms at Canary Wharf and High Street Kensigton are especially nice.

The main thing to know about sports is that soccer is called football, and everyone here is totally into it.


A few comments on entertainment:

-- http://www.lovefilm.com is a great DVD-by-mail service

-- We don't have satellite radio here (but I hope we get it soon)

-- Waterstone's is the best bookstore chain (other than the independent Daunt)

-- For an extremely thorough listing of upcoming concerts in London, visit     http://www.pollstar.com

-- The Saturday Guardian has a little booklet called The Guide, which covers the     week ahead

-- http://www.timeout.com/london/ has it all as well
Expand/ContractPets
My knowledge on this is limited, although dogs and cats that move to the UK must go through a pet passport program before arriving, or go into quarantine. UK establishments are reasonably pet-friendly, although not as much as in some Continental countries, but more-so than in the US.
Expand/ContractUseful Resources
For daily updates on cool things happening around town:
http://www.dailycandy.com and http://www.urbanjunkies.com

-- For (fun) financial news: http://www.hereisthecity.com

-- For daily tips on living in London: http://www.arrivalslimited.com/lifetoday.html

-- For UK eating: http://www.chowhound.com/boards/42

-- For all sorts of things for sale, wanted, etc: http://www.gumtree.com
Expand/ContractOthers
Others: London is great. You want to be here!

See too:
Our Expat Women Living in UK page

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