Paris is architecturally beautiful and filled with things to do and see. It's a vibrant, lively atmosphere, especially in the summer, when it gets sunny but not too hot. The fall and winter can be a little more difficult, since it seems to rain a lot.

There are a lot of other expats living in Paris, which is a pro, but because it is also a number one tourist destination, foreigners are usually lumped into that category. As soon as some Parisians hear the slightest anglo accent, they will speak in English, which just doesn't make the experience all that authentic at times. I find Paris to be very accepting, however, and there seems to be plenty to do for people of all walks of life. It is a multi-cultural place, despite the official political line that separate cultural communities do not exist here. There is such a wealth of neighborhoods and traditions, from Chinese food markets in the 13th district to the African market in the 18th. Parisians generally tend to dress like New Yorkers, from my experience, which means no shorts, no sneakers unless you're jogging, and dark colors in the winter. There is not a dress code, but there is an underlying feeling that people dress to be seen, even if it's just on the sidewalk on the way to the store. I have had a few security issues only when alone at night and in in areas where many young men just hang around in herds with nothing better to do (on Place Blanche near Montmartre, for example, and also on the Champs Elysées). I have been grabbed physically pushed, with my angry yells of protest only met with laughter. The threat for more violent crime is less than in many places, since guns are illegal and there is very little knife violence, but the physical treatment I've just described is much more common here than it was in the U.S.

If you plan to stay in France for more than 3 months, you must have a visa. There are short-stay (under 6 months) and long-stay (12 months) visas, and they are for employment, study, or visitor's status. A work visa must be obtained by an employer who wishes to hire you. The process is a minimum of 2 months. A student visa is more complicated to obtain now that there is a new "Campus France" registration system. That doesn't mean it's more difficult, it's just a longer process. A full-time student (courses of 20 hours/week) is allowed to work for a maximum of 20 hours a week. A visitor is not allowed to work at all and must prove s/he has funds to support her/himself for the duration of the visa. If you have a long-stay visa you must register with the Préfecture de Police upon arrival in order to obtain the residency permit (carte de séjour). This process includes getting a medical exam which basically consists of a chest x-ray and a series of questions about health and vaccinations.

Housing prices vary greatly from area to area. In central Paris and in the more upscale residential areas of the 15th and 16th districts, a studio apartment could rent for about 600-900 euros/month. A one-bedroom would rent for between 700-1200 euros/month. In outer districts like the 20th district, these prices are almost half. Most leases seem to last a year, and usually there is one month's security deposit due upon signing. It's important to note what exactly is included in the apartment. We have rented furnished apartments, but many unfurnished apartments do not even include kitchen appliances like a refrigerator. You need to know what you're going to have to provide yourself, since you may be surprised! Unfortunately I do not have any experience with purchasing a house.

In my limited experience babysitting, babysitters are not paid as much as they are in the U.S. The going rate seems to be around 7.50 euros/hour. Some people have a housecleaner come once a week, but this is not a widespread practice. One thing we were used to in New York is having dress shirts cleaned and pressed for a reasonable price. Here it is a luxury and costs nearly 10 euros a shirt. Needless to say, we do a lot more ironing now!

We use Orange (part of France Telecom) for internet access. It costs about 40 euros a month and includes unlimited calls throughout France. We use a Skype phone, which is a VOIP phone and only costs 2 cents/minute to call U.S. numbers. In fact, our Skype number is a U.S. number, so our friends and family can call us as a domestic call and in rings in our Parisian apartment - with no charge to us. We subscribe to the International Herald Tribune, which is a wonderful paper. We don't watch TV, since we watch all of our favorite shows on iTunes or DVD's on our computers. We also listen to U.S. public radio over the internet. The postal service is not reliable unless you purchase insurance and send letters and packages with a tracking number. We have had problems receiving packages, where the slips were either never placed in our mailbox or taken from the mail area before we saw them. We lost a box of winter clothing in the mail and also had a phone stolen from a package. Of course, it's impossible to know if it is the fault of the U.S. of French postal service, but the moral of the story is to buy insurance and pay extra for a tracking number.

French is not necessary to get by in everyday life here, especially in the city center, since Parisians are so used to tourists all over the place. Nonetheless, it is a more pleasant experience to learn French and be able to speak with the locals, especially if you are going to be dealing with French colleagues (even if you're working for an international company). It becomes much more important when traveling to smaller French towns. There are numerous language schools and tutors in Paris. The most famous is at the Sorbonne, which also offers courses in phonetics and French civilization. I feel that knowing the language makes all the difference in having a good experience here, whether it be dealing with administrative matters or getting to know an aspect of French culture.

The water is safe to drink, but very hard, so calcium build-up is a problem for kitchen appliances like water boilers. There is no charge for water. The locals love the different kinds of spring water here, but we try to be eco-conscious and not go through tons of plastic bottles. Right from the tap, or using a water filter pitcher is a good route. Gas and Electricity: both are controlled by EDF/GDF, which sends a bill once every two months. The usual bill for a one-bedroom apartment is under 100 euros, so 50 euros/month.

It is very difficult to find a job without a work visa. If you do have the right to work (on a student visa, or if you have a work visa), it is quite easy to find work teaching English. The jobs that you may find without already having a permit are in the technology industry. There is emphasis now to grant visas for highly skilled labor.

f you have a job or are a student, it is fairly easy to set up a bank account. We have heard good things about LCL and BNP. You usually need proof of address (you lease or an electric bill in your name), ID, and if possible, a work contract or proof of funding. It is more complicated than in the U.S., with a lot more pieces of paper to sign. Additionally, to even begin the process you must make an appointment, so start early.

Medical care is of a very high quality, especially in an emergency. For non-emergencies, the ER is very slow and not recommended. It's better to find a doctor immediately and then have someone to call if you do get sick. Medicines are widely available with a prescription and easy to obtain at one of the pharmacies, which seem to be on every street corner. Even without local insurance, the costs are relatively low. For example, a friend of mine had to go to the ER to get stitches on her finger. She was treated quickly and the bill was only 40 euros in all.

Public schools exist for everyone from babies to university students. In my experience, the major universities in Paris are quite good (ENS, Sorbonne), but many universities in Paris and throughout France do not have the same facilities as those in the States. For example, many do not have large libraries or lending privileges. Paris has many public libraries and archives, however, which are very rich in offerings. The only downside is that access cards cost money.

I would not recommend driving in Paris because of the traffic. It doesn't seem logical, either, given the safe and vast metro, bus, and rail network. A great way to get around is on a bicycle: the new Velib system means that there is a bicycle stand every 300 meters where you can rent a bike for next to nothing. One euro gets you a 1-day pass, which means an unlimited number of 30-minute rides in 24 hours.

You can get almost anything you desire in Paris. After all, France is known for high-quality beauty products and shopping. No need to bring your own soap, toothpaste, or shampoo. One thing I do bring from home is deodorant, since the sticks here are not the same and I haven't found any scents I like since the selection is limited. The best selection of general bath and beauty care is at Monoprix. They usually have a special on one or two kinds, so it's nice to save a few euros and stock up. I haven't tried having my hair cut yet, but there are salons on every block, so I would imagine it to be easy.

Soccer is the most popular sport, but you can join a gym and play racket sports, swims, or even just jog in the park - something that is being done more and more. The public pools are a great deal and are located in every district. We joined a gym with a pool in the Latin Quarter. The weight room is great, as is the pool, but the machines are less than perfect.

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David Applefield, _Paris Inside Out. The Insiders Handbook to Life in Paris_ (The Globe Pequot Press) The best map is a little red book of Paris called "Plan de Paris par Arrondissement_ and published by A. Leconte Just for fun: David Sedaris, _Me Talk Pretty One Day_ Adam Gopnik, _Paris to the Moon_ Leonard Pitt, _Walks Through Lost Paris_ http://www.thedatevine.com http://www.theParisblog.com

See too: Our Expat Women Living in France page City Experience - Lille, France - December 28, 2008