Sofia is a city of 1.5 million, just entering the modernity of the EU, with a center district of narrow cobblestone alleys, parks, tramlines, monuments, apartments and government buildings. Vitosha Mountain and miles of hiking sit just to the south. The climate includes all four seasons, with spring and fall quite short. Mild winters.

It's very safe,with the exception of potential pickpocketing. Cheap cost of living--the least expensive city in Europe. Many parks. Close to nature. No dress code. Locals are generally apathetic about foreigners. CONS Terrible air quality. Bad traffic. Unenforced road rules. Few crosswalks. No customer service. Bureaucracy makes simple projects difficult.

I do not have specific information on this, sorry, although I do know that in this cash base economy, freelancing requires no type of permits.

COST: A furnished typical Bulgarian style apartment will cost you 3-400 Euro in the center. A furnished European style apartment will cost double or more. ECONOMY: It's a complete cash economy. No checks and rarely bank accounts are used. AREAS: Lozenetz is popular with expats, but too far from the center in my opinion. Anwhere IN the center is convenient for walking. Near the US Embassy is too far away. SCHEDULE: Many apartments go month by month. Utilities can be paid online and are not expensive. When looking for a place, things to consider: first floor window bars, hot water mechanism, type of heat, elevator in building, noise of street, dumpster location, offices in building (which increase door traffic and could affect safety), quality of furnishings. FURNISHINGS: In BG apartments, you'll find a European shower, a washer, a small oven, futon type of couch, area rugs, hardwood floors, cupboard space. In a BG apartment, you wil NOT find: dryer, microwave, full size oven, full size fridge, full size freezer. Expat apartments vary with these items.

It's common to have help among expats. Some have drivers, gardeners, housekeepers and nannies. I do not know the cost.

TELEPHONE: Skype works very well from anywhere. MTel is a good company. For long term stays, you should buy a plan. Short term stays, a voucher is best. INTERNET: This varies widely in reliability. Typical cost is about 12-20 euro/month. Quality is quite fast when it's working, but rain will break it down for sometimes days. Customer service is terrible. THere are several wifi cafes in the city, but reliability is poor. Onda, Motto, Costa Coffee are the best. TV: You can get a few English-speaking with basic cable. FOr an extra cost, anything is deliverable. MEDIA: Sofia Echo is the newspaper (1-2 Euro) Vagabond is the magazine (2-3 Euro). Echo is very mediocre. Vagaond is super. POST: Mostly reliable. Packages from the USA must be picked up for a small fee at only one particular station. European packages are much easier, but while all packages have arrived, some small cards and envelopes have not. A trip to the post office for a small errand can take a lot of time and at least minimal language skills.

Many in Sofia are beginning to speak English, but anywhere off the expensive Expat trail and you'll need some Bulgarian. For the post office, for taxis, for basic errands, it will make life much easier. A tutor is very affordable and can be found easily through the International Women's Club, Peace Corps office or embassies.

WATER: The faucet water is safe in small doses. Over a number of years, I've been told it adds unhealthy deposits in your body. We buy water at the local supermarket--its quite cheap. In typical expat housing, the water is pumped in. GAS: only one company. ELECTRICITY: Again, no choice. COSTS: Varies widely depending on apartment and use. We usually spend under 50 Euro per month for our small place.

I found it quite easy to acquire work as a freelance journalist, doing voice narration, acting in low-budget movies filmed in Bulgaria, etc. Online listings are only just beginning to pick up. In general, the media is not the primary source. It's all about networking. The Women's Working Network and the International Women's Club will help.

Leva is the local currency. Setting up a savings account takes a Lichna Karta, the local identification card.

A new Japanese hospital which has receive rave reviews in modernity, reliability and quality. There are plenty of Western doctors, at a price. Bulgarian hospitals are not advisable. As for medicines, occasionally I can find only the generic brand of certain tablets, so that does vary. Health dangers to consider: air quality, dog bites (a lot of stray dogs). Eastern medicine, including acupuncture, raiki, massage and other techniques are becoming widely available.

There are several schools--French, American, Bulgarian, Spanish--which accommodate expat children. I know many of them are driven or take a taxi to reach school, however. I don't have children, so that's all I know on the topic.

VEHICLES: A car can be purchase without much hassle, and if you live in the suburbs, they are required. However, traffic is horrendous, laws are not enforced and rules are often ignored. Be prepared to join their style or be left in the dust. Parking is a mess. There are no garages. Although there's often little or no penalty for sidewalk parking. If you can live without a car, I highly advise it. Hiring a vehicle for trips outside the city is easy. I do NOT advise getting a drivers license in Sofia. PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION: Inclues buses, trams and trolleys, which run frequently, cost less than a Euro and are on time, but move slowly, are very old and often smell.

With Markson Spencer, three new malls and plenty of salons, there is not a lack for products or services. Manicures, pedicures, haircuts, color and waxing are all available. Quality varies widely, but you get what you pay for.

Rugby, soccer, running, hiking and cycling are all popular and offer clubs within the expat community and sometimes with Bulgarians. More road races are held every year. European football games occur here in Sofia, but could be rough for a family outing.

I'm sorry, I know nothing about pets.

BOOKS: Under the York, Balkan Ghosts are both good non-fiction tales of this region, but a bit heady. MOVIES: Everything is Illuminated would be good to see. WEBSITES: www.Sofiaecho.com (newspaper) www.vagabond-bg.com (magazine) www.programata.bg, (schedule of events, restaurants, movies, etc) www.eventim.bg (concerts, etc) www.glory-ho.com (my own blog) and go to www.expatblog.com for more blogs.

Please look for Traditzia, a gallery and foundation which helps socially disadvantaged artisans--they are well known in the expat community for artistic jewellery, quality handcrafts and extraordinary souvenirs. 36 Vasil Levsky. I recommend women joining the International Women's Club, Women's Working Network, where they'll find professional opps, charity committees and special interest groups. I would also look into UFO and Nu Image Film Productions for acting jobs--they're always looking for American voices. See too: Our Expat Women Living in Bulgaria page